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Journal Articles Separations Year : 2022

Amaranth Oilseed Composition and Cosmetic Applications

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Martine Urrutigoïty
Akram Hijazi
  • Function : Author
  • PersonId : 1086639
Muriel Cerny
  • Function : Author
  • PersonId : 1019066
Philippe Evon
Othmane Merah
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Abstract

Amaranth (Amaranthus cruentus) is a possible alternative to high-nutritional-value crops. Amaranth seeds are considered to be one of the few sources of phytosqualene (up to 8%). The use of squalene and its hydrogenated form squalane in skincare formulations has been steadily increasing, and the demand for these compounds is expected to rise continuously. The aim of this study was to investigate the amaranth oilseed as a potential ingredient for cosmetic applications. First, an experimental design and optimization were carried out in order to obtain amaranth oil rich in squalane instead of squalene through catalytic hydrogenation. Under the optimal conditions, the resulting oil was fully hydrogenated, with higher stability, and more suitable for cosmetic uses. Furthermore, the effect of the addition of amaranth oil and squalane on the rheological and sensory characteristics of moisturizing cream formulations was assessed. As expected, higher contents of oil and polyunsaturated fatty acids were obtained by supercritical CO2 extraction, and were used for the next step of the experiment. Optimization of the experimental conditions resulted in fully hydrogenated amaranth oil, with higher stability and rich in squalane. Better quality of moisturizing cream formulations was achieved when W/O formulations were enriched with 2% oil, or by adding 1% oil and 1% squalane. The formulation rich in squalane showed a better overall quality compared to other formulations.
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Dates and versions

hal-03737807 , version 1 (25-07-2022)

Licence

Attribution - CC BY 4.0

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Bouchra Sayed-Ahmad, Martine Urrutigoïty, Akram Hijazi, Zeinab Saad, Muriel Cerny, et al.. Amaranth Oilseed Composition and Cosmetic Applications. Separations, 2022, 9 (7), ⟨10.3390/separations9070181⟩. ⟨hal-03737807⟩
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